Mangroves reflected in still water at dusk in West Bali National Park, with volcanoes beyond

A premium guide to Bali

Bali, unhurried.

A short, opinionated guide to the island at its own pace: reefs where there is almost no one, beaches best enjoyed early, dinners unlike any other, and Ubud done properly.

What this is

You will not find the usual list here. We chose a few places and we tell you why.

If something is touristy but still worth it, we say so. If it is famous and not worth your time, it simply is not here. Every place was picked for a reason you can taste, see or feel — not because it photographs well.

The route is built around staying long enough to settle into each place, rather than racing between sights. Less driving, more being there. Fewer places, better chosen.

The route

West, centre, east — then home.

The order follows the roads, not a list of sights. It works just as well in reverse.

Day by day
Map of Bali with the suggested routeThe route starts at the airport in the south, heads to West Bali National Park in the far northwest, crosses the highlands to Ubud in the centre, continues east to Candidasa and returns to the airport.MenjanganWest Bali National Park — Menjangan · 2–3 daysWest Bali National ParkMenjangan · 2–3 daysUbud — 3–4 daysUbud3–4 daysCandidasa — 2–3 daysCandidasa2–3 daysTirta GanggaTirta GanggaVirgin BeachVirgin BeachAirport (DPS)Airport (DPS)Uluwatu — dinnerUluwatudinnerLes village — dinnerLes villagedinner

The route, in words

  1. Suggested route, about 10 days
  2. West Bali National Park & Menjangan — 2–3 days
  3. Ubud — 3–4 days
  4. Candidasa, Virgin Beach, Tirta Gangga — 2–3 days

Before you go

Cash, a sarong, reef-safe sunscreen — and the art of the haggle.