Bali, unhurried
Bali, unhurried

Hours, prices and schedules change. Confirm before you go.

A traditional jukung outrigger on the sand at Candidasa, with the Gili Mimpang islets offshore

East · 2–3 days

Candidasa & the East

A boutique hotel, a beach that is best early, and the water palace.

Why Candidasa

The east, at its own pace

Spend 2–3 days in Candidasa. The east coast is calmer than the south — fewer crowds, less traffic, more sea — and it makes the perfect base for exploring the region: the beaches of Karangasem, the rice fields, the water palaces.

Nothing here is trying to be a scene. That is the appeal.

Where to stay

A small boutique hotel on the water

Stay in a boutique hotel: intimate, facing the sea, with no more than 15 rooms. Candidasa has a handful of them along the shore — small places where the staff learn your name on the first day and breakfast comes with a view of the islands offshore.

Look for sea-view rooms, a pool that faces the water, and a quiet stretch of coast away from the main road.

Day trip

Virgin Beach, done right

Virgin Beach — Pantai Pasir Putih, in Karangasem — is a day trip from Candidasa: white sand, clear water, a line of warungs under the palms.

Get there at 10 am so you have the whole day, because the sun leaves the beach at around 4 pm — after that, the sand is in the shadow of the cliffs.

Have lunch at one of the beach warungs. Here is the key: if you eat and drink at a warung, you can stay on its loungers all day for free. Pick one warung and stay with it.

Loungers and umbrellas on the white sand of Virgin Beach
Virgin Beach — the loungers come with lunch.
A day at Virgin Beach
  1. 8:30–10:00Arrive. Golden light, free loungers, the whole day ahead.
  2. 12:30Lunch at a beach warung — and the lounger is yours for the day.
  3. ~4 pmThe sun leaves the beach behind the cliffs.

Dinner

One night at Vincent's

Book one dinner at Vincent’s in Candidasa — an east coast institution with a long history and honest cooking. Reserve if you are travelling in high season.

Day trip

Tirta Gangga, in the morning

From Candidasa, take a day tour to Tirta Gangga, the water palace built by the last king of Karangasem: pools, stone carvings, koi, and stepping stones laid across the water.

Go in the morning, before the groups. Hire a driver for the day — the drive from Candidasa takes roughly 30 to 45 minutes — and add a walk through the rice terraces around the palace.

If you have time, Taman Ujung, another royal water palace nearby, makes an easy second stop.

Stepping stones and carved statues in the pools of Tirta Gangga, with the tiered fountain behind
The stepping stones at Tirta Gangga. Early, they are yours.

Before you go

Small things that matter

  • Cash for the warungs and small shops.
  • A sarong for temple visits.
  • Reef-safe sunscreen.